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Pentaglyceryl stearate (more accurately called polyglyceryl-5 stearate) is a mild, non-ionic emulsifier made from stearic acid and polyglycerol. It’s widely used in cosmetics and skincare to blend oil and water into stable formulations like lotions, creams, and sunscreens. This ingredient improves texture, provides a silky feel, and enhances product spreadability without clogging pores. Derived from natural sources like vegetable glycerin and fatty acids, it’s biodegradable and suitable for sensitive or natural skincare products. It’s also accepted in eco-certified formulations (e.g., COSMOS, Ecocert). Occasionally used in hair conditioners for softness and in topical pharmaceuticals as a stabilizer, it’s valued for its safety, low irritation potential, and environmental profile. Not commonly used in food. Overall, it’s a versatile, skin-friendly emulsifier in modern personal care products.
Pentaglyceryl Stearate (also known as Pentaerythrityl Stearate in some contexts, though more accurately referred to as Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate or Pentaglycerin Stearate) is a non-ionic emulsifier and surfactant commonly used in cosmetics, personal care products, and occasionally in food or pharmaceutical formulations.
However, it's important to clarify terminology:
The correct INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name is typically Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate or Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, depending on the degree of glycerol polymerization.
"Pentaglyceryl stearate" is not a standardized chemical name but is often used informally to describe esters formed from stearic acid (a saturated fatty acid) and polyglycerol (specifically with 5 glycerol units).
For accuracy, we’ll discuss Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, which aligns with what is likely meant by “pentaglyceryl stearate.”
What Is Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate?
It is an ester created by reacting stearic acid (C18 fatty acid) with polyglycerol-5 (a chain of five glycerol molecules). This results in a mild, biodegradable, and skin-friendly emulsifier.
Key Properties
Appearance: White to off-white waxy solid or flaky powder
Solubility: Oil-soluble, but helps blend oil and water phases
HLB Value: Typically around 7–9 (moderate hydrophilicity), making it suitable for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions
Biodegradable & derived from renewable resources (vegetable-based glycerin and stearic acid)
Primary Uses
1. Cosmetics & Skincare
Emulsifier: Stabilizes mixtures of oil and water in creams, lotions, and serums.
Texture Enhancer: Provides a smooth, silky feel without greasiness.
Stabilizer: Prevents separation of ingredients over time and under temperature changes.
Mildness: Suitable for sensitive or baby skin due to low irritation potential.
2. Hair Care Products
Used in conditioners and masks to improve spreadability and leave hair soft without buildup.
3. Natural & Organic Formulations
Accepted in many "clean beauty" and eco-certified products (e.g., COSMOS, Ecocert) because it’s derived from natural fatty acids and glycerin.
4. Pharmaceuticals (Less Common)
May act as an excipient in topical ointments or creams to ensure uniform drug dispersion.
5. Food Industry (Rare)
Not commonly used in food; other polyglycerol esters (like polyglycerol polyricinoleate) are preferred for edible applications.
Safety & Regulatory Status
Generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for topical use.
Non-comedogenic (doesn’t clog pores) when properly formulated.
Low toxicity and minimal skin irritation risk.
Approved by major cosmetic regulatory bodies (EU, US FDA for cosmetics).
Common Product Examples Containing It
Facial moisturizers
Sunscreens
Body lotions
Natural deodorants
Cream-based makeup (foundations, concealers)
Summary
Pentaglyceryl stearate (more accurately Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate) is a gentle, plant-derived emulsifier widely used in modern skincare and cosmetics to blend oil and water phases, improve texture, and enhance product stability—especially valued in natural and sensitive-skin formulations.
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